INTRODUCTION:

Cosmetics have been prepared and used since ancient times. Some are born beautiful but others are made to look beautiful, cosmetics are made available for both men and women. Women depend more on cosmetic for beautifying them. Beauty has become vital in this modern world. It increases personality and look of a person.

In olden days homemade remedies were used as cosmetics, women prepared their own face packs and applied on their skin and body. Herbs such as aloevera leaf, turmeric, banana, neem, papaya, cucumber and other plants were used as herbs in cosmetics. Aloe vera is a medicinal plant used as cosmetics and to treat various skin diseases. Turmeric is a traditional herb it was used since ancient civilizations, women used to smear their bodies with a mixture of turmeric and sandal paste for getting a golden glow to their skin. Henna is used as a natural hair colourant and neem as an antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral. These herbs are used as polyherbal formulations, plant extracts, powders, oils, face packs, soaps etc. were prepared using these herbs. But people go to beauty centers to beautify them. Make up is the common word used by people, makeup kits are available which women carry with them were ever they go. In the present world people go to shops and get cosmetics products OTC. Since proper instructions for application of skin and hair care products are available but not safe people prefer the modern technology. But these synthetic cosmetics may lead to some side effects such as skin allergic reactions. So cosmetics prepared from medicinal herbs can be used safely on skin to avoid side effects and allergic reactions. Preparation of drug according to the ancient method has been reduced. There are synthetic products available for oily skin and dry skin, these preparations does not give a marked effect when applied on the skin. But homemade remedies for cosmetics and herbs, used in combinations produce a marked effect when applied and produce slight changes on the skin. These formulations can be prepared as poly herbal formulations and used with fewer side effects.

Cosmetics are also used as perfumes, and dental care products for whitening your teeth and protecting from tooth decay and bad odour. Preventing the body from body odour is a vital importance to mask the bad odour body sprays and perfumes are available. Protecting the body and maintaining a healthy skin is important. There are different methods for preparation of cosmetic products like decoction, infusions, tincture, extracts and oils. Keeping body fit is important for human beings. Nutraceutical containing foods like fruits and vegetables can be consumed to maintain a healthy body, fruits contain antioxidants, some foods can be used to reduce body weight and regular exercise can keep the body fit and makes us look young.

Cosmetics are substances which are prepared to enhance beauty and increase the attractiveness of a person. Traditionally people used home-made preparations as cosmetics. Cosmetics are mainly used for two purposes, to enhance the personal appearance of human beings and personal care of the body parts. The structure and function of the skin is important while considering cosmetics. Although most of the diseases affecting the skin originate from the layers of the skin, the skin is the first organ of the body to show detectable signs of different disease. The skin is the largest organ of the body. The skin is a barrier between the body’s internal and external environment. Skin is an outer protective covering of the body which prevents loss of internal body fluids and restricts entry of foreign materials.

Skin preparation are mainly divided into three categories which includes Cleansing agents, Nourishing agents and Moisturizing agents. There are different kinds of cosmetic preparations for skin. Herbal skin and hair care products are available for babies as baby care products.

There are different types of skin oily skin and dry skin. Applying sunscreen lotion for protection from UV Radiations and using moisturizing creams for cold climate.

Acne, is a biggest enemy for youngsters which spoils the face, look, appearance, beauty, so most of the people cover their faces, acne is due to oily skin nature, due to excess sebum secretion in the skin. This can be treated with various anti acne treating agents, using gels and creams.

Anti-ageing creams are used to treat skin wrinkles. Nowadays people experience ageing of skin in young age due to stress, and other reasons. Skin ageing can be prevented if the skin is protected from dust and other external factors. Applying anti-ageing creams on skin can increase skin tone, uplifting the skin giving a smooth and young appearance.

Blackheads and black spots can be cleared using various herbal preparations containing fruit pulp extracts with antioxidants. Antioxidants and vitamins play a major role in increasing skin tone and skin texture.

Skin whitening agents can enhance the colour and tone of the skin and gives a good look and appearance to the skin. There are different skin whitening agents which can enhance colour and complexity of the skin, giving a shiny and glossy appearance.

Dry skin is a condition which most people have, where the skin becomes dried up due to dehydration and the skin is subjected to peeling. Cosmetic preparations and skin moisturizers can be used for treating dry skin.

Hair is an attractive feature for both men and women. Maintaining healthy hair is utmost important because it gives personality to a person. If hair is not protected properly it may end in loss of hair. Especially men face this problem which results in baldness. Hair fall is a major problem with people, so protecting the hair and scalp from dandruff is very important. Shampoos also contain chemicals which can lead to hair fall. Hair fall can be controlled by using hair oils containing preparations used for stimulating hair growth.

Another major problem with women is growth of hair follicles on face and all over the body this can be overcome by using herbal preparations. Turmeric paste is traditionally used by Indian women to keep them free of hair and as an antimicrobial.

The skin is divided into three main regions such as the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis. The epidermis is the outer layer of the skin which protects the skin from various external environmental conditions. The dermis which is below the epidermis contains connective tissue, hair follicles, and sweat glands. The hypodermis subcutaneous tissue is made of connective tissue and fat. If the skin is not protected properly it may lead to different skin disorders. The skin tone changes according to different environmental conditions. The skin varies in thickness in various regions of the body. It is thinner in the eyelids and thicker in the palms and toes. The skin colour varies from person to person, it may be smooth or rough it may be dark or bright it may be thick or thin. The skin has hair follicles which protects the skin from insect bites. There are various cosmetic preparations like creams, lotions, oils, soaps, gels, moisturizers, face wash, face mask, after shave lotions, deodorants, shampoos, etc. These cosmetic can be applied on the skin to protect the skin from different skin conditions like acne, blackheads, age spots, skin rashes, skin allergy, itching, inflammation, etc. Skin itching can lead to serious problem if not treated immediately.

Plants uses as cosmetics:

Avadago Persea Americana Lauraceae:

Avagado contains vitamin C, vitamin E, carotenoids, and polyphenols, these compounds have antioxidant effects that help to protect cells from free radical damage¹. They are used in the treatment of psoriasis². wrinkles, and stretch marks³.

Banana Musa paradisiaca Musaceae:

Banana can be used as an effective beauty treatment for skin as well as hair. Banana can be used to treat a veneral wart, take a small piece of banana skin and place it on the wart, with the yellow side out, it treats warts. Smash one ripe banana in one cup of milk and drink it at least 2-3 times a day to treat skin allergies. Banana peel can be used for treating poison ivy rashes. Rub the peel inside out over the rashes; it soothes the skin to provide a cooling effect. If the skin is very sore, rubbing the peel on the skin may actually increase discomfort. In such a case, the blunt side of a knife can be used to scrape the insides of the banana peel so that to get a thick grainy paste. The paste is gently applied to the affected area of the skin to reduce the irritation and inflammation⁴.

Holy basil Ocimum basilicum Lamiaceae:

Concentrated basil extract was entrapped in the inner aqueous phase of w/o emulsion. Newly formulated and formerly evaluated base (containing no extract) and a formulation (containing 3% concentrated extract of basil) were applied. Both the base and formulation were applied to the cheeks of 11 healthy human volunteers for a period of 12 weeks. Skin erythma and melanin were determined every two weeks to measure any effect produced by these topical creams. The base showed insignificant (p≥0.05) whereas the formulation showed statistically significant decrease in skin erythma. Skin melanin content was significantly (p≤0.05) increased by the base but decreased by the formulation⁵.

Beet Root Beta vulgaris Chenopodiaceae:

Fresh and dried leaves were extracted using aqueous and methanolic extracts, both extracts were investigated for its phytochemical contents, and it was found that the Iraqi species is rich with flavonoids specially querectin and kaempeferol, in addition to phenolic compounds. From both extracts solutions and ointments were prepared with different concentrations and their clinical effects for the treatment of acne and psoriasis. The clinical study showed that the plant extract gave significant healing effect for the treatment of Acne within two weeks using aqueous solutions prepared from extracts of fresh and dried leaves with more predominant effect for the fresh leaves. And the solution dosage form is better than ointment in the treatment of Acne. Same results obtained for psoriasis but ointment dosage form was much more effective. Spinach leaves (cultivated in Iraq) extract in addition to the formulation of different topical preparations from both plant extracts and evaluate its clinical applications for the treatment of acne and psoriasis⁶.

Egg plant Solanum melongena Solanaceae:

The antifungal activity of Solanum melongena leaf, extracted with petroleum ether, chloroform, methanol and water was evaluated against three human pathogenic dermatophytes namely Trichophyton mentagrophytes, T. rubrum and T. tonsurans and two opportunistic fungi Candida albicans and Trichosporon beigelii⁷.

Pot marigold Calendula officinalis Asteraceae:

Supercritical CO₂-extraction proves state-of-the-art technology for producing highly active Calendula extracts. The pentacyclic triterpene alcohols such as faradiol-3-monoesters and monols such as taraxasterols are important marker ingredients and have been identified as the anti-inflammatory principles which are especially enriched by CO₂-extraction. The Calendula CO₂-extract thus delivers the base for active and well standardized cosmetic preparations especially for ointments which have a long tradition in the self-medication of skin diseases and in cosmetics. In contrast to other asteraceae, marigold does not contain sesquiterpene lactones which might have a sensitising potential⁸.

Calendula officinalis L. Dry Calendula extract was used as an active compound. This extract was proved to be an effective scavenger of H2O2 radicals in in-vitro studies with the mitochondria of rat cardiac muscles. Several compositions of the cream base were evaluated and the hydrophilic cream containing complex emulsifier was chosen as the delivery system. Subsequently, Calendula extract was incorporated, and the concentration of extract which provided significant antioxidant effect (p < 0.05), has been determined. Antioxidant activity of the cream with Calendula extract was due to the content of carotenoids, polyphenols and flavonoids. Cream with the best properties (0.9% of Calendula extract) contained 0.73 ± 0.04mg/100g of total carotenoids expressed as carotene⁹.

The antimicrobial, antifungal and antiviral properties of different water-alchohol extracts of marigold against different strains of microorganisms, which have been proven in placebo controlled clinical trials, on one hand, and the etiology of acne, posing a serious dermal problem for many young people, on the other hand, are the main prerequisite for the preparation of a liquid extract of marigold, its inclusion in the gel prepared with the gelling agent methylcellulose and its administration in 24 adolescents with acne at the beauty and educational center “Top Beauty" in Sofia¹⁰.

The present study was performed to evaluate the effect of a cream (O/W) containing the essential oil of Calendula officinalis on biochemical parameters of the skin of albino rats against UV-B radiation. The results indicated that the treatment with creams containing 4% and 5% of Calendula essential oil caused a significant decrease in the malonyldialdehyde level, whereas the levels of catalase, glutathione, superoxide dismutase, ascorbic acid, and the total protein level were significantly increased after 1 month of daily irradiation and treatment when compared to untreated control groups. The results suggest that the cutaneous application of the essential oil of Calendula prevents UV-B-induced alterations in the level of antioxidants in skin tissue¹¹.

Carrot Daucus carrota Apiaceae:

Daucus carota have the highest β-carotene, a precursor of vitamin A, and also contain abundant amount of Vitamin C. Vitamin A also acts as a very good anti-oxidant which slows down the process of aging. Vitamin C produces collagen in the body which is an essential protein for making our skin elastic. It also prevents wrinkles on the skin. In this study four oils that is carrot seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil and olive oil are selected to determine SPF because Daucus carrota contain high concentration of B-carotene which is precursor of vit. A, It also contain vit. B1, B2, B5, B6, B9 and Vit E and vit C which has good antioxidant activity which prevent wrinkle and gives anti-ageing property¹².

Another study was evaluated to prepare a polyherbal cosmetic cream comprising extracts of natural products such as Aloe vera, Cucumis sativus and Daucus carota. Different types of formulations oil in water (O/W) herbal creams namely F1 to F7 were formulated by in corporating different concentrations of stearic acid and cetyl alcohol. The evaluations of all formulations (F1 toF7) were done on different parameters like pH, viscosity, spreadibilty and stability were examined. Formulations F6 and F7 showed good spreadibilty, good consistency, homogeneity, appearance, pH, spreadibilty, no evidence of phase separation and ease of removal. The formulation F6 and F7 shows no redness, edema, inflammation and irritation during irritancy studies. These formulations are safe to use for skin. These studies suggest that composition of extracts and base of cream of F6 and F7 are more stable and safe, it may produce synergistic action¹³.

Chilli pepper Capsicum frutescens Solanaceae:

Green Chilli helps to reduce pain, inflammation, redness and scaling associated with psoriasis¹⁴.

Cocoa butter Theobroma cacao Malvaceae:

Cocoa pod extract (CPE) composition was accomplished using UHPLC. The antioxidant capacity were measured using scavenging assay of 1,2-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), β-carotene bleaching assay (BCB) and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP). Inhibiting effect on skin degradation enzymes was carried out using elastase and collagenase assays. The skin whitening effect of CPE was determined based on mushroom tyrosinase assay and sun screening effect (UV-absorbance at 200-400 nm wavelength). LC-MS/MS data showed the presence of carboxylic acid, phenolic acid, fatty acid, flavonoids (flavonol and flavones), stilbenoids and terpenoids in CPE. Results for antioxidant activity exhibited that CPE possessed good antioxidant activity, based on the mechanism of the assays compared with ascorbic acid (AA) and standardized pine bark extract (PBE); DPPH: AA > CPE > PBE; FRAP: PBE > CPE > AA; and BCB: BHT > CPE > PBE. Cocoa pod extract showed better action against elastase and collagenase enzymes in comparison with PBE and AA. Higher inhibition towards tyrosinase enzyme was exhibited by CPE than kojic acid and AA, although lower than PBE. CPE induced proliferation when tested on human fibroblast cell at low concentration. CPE also exhibited a potential as UVB sunscreen despite its low performance as a UVA sunscreen agent¹⁵.

Cocoa has a rich history in human use, however, a growing body of evidence from clinical and bench research has begun to provide scientific validation for the use of cocoa-derived phytochemicals as an effective approach for skin protection¹⁶.

Cocoa butter is a common ingredient in skin moisturizers, but cocoa’s beneﬁcial effects on skin may extend beyond its use as a topical agent. A number of studies have identiﬁed a role of cocoa ﬂavanols in protecting skin from damage from UV light, believed to be mediated through factors, such as generation of ROS and inﬂammatory markers such as pros-tagladins, NO, leukotrienes, and histamine¹⁷.

Coffee Coffea Arabica Rubiaceae:

Coffea arabica’s ability to increase production of collagen and elastin and to protect against the loss of moisture.Topical chlorogenic acid reduced redness induced by excess ultraviolet exposure. And in another study, scientists tested topical caffeine’s ability to protect against photoaging. For the study, researchers exposed hairless mice to ultraviolet B (UVB) and then applied topical caffeine three times per week for 11 weeks. The results revealed that caffeine administration limited photodamage. This protection could be related to caffeine’s ability to increase apoptosis (programmed cell death) of UVB damaged keratinocytes, which remove damaged skin cells before they cause photoaging and skin cancer. Researchers have designed an innovative facial cream that includes ingredients that have been documented to improve the appearance of wrinkles, firmness, redness, and texture. Researchers have discovered that ingredients extracted from coffee beans have been scientifically shown to rejuvenate aging skin. In one study, treated subjects experienced significant improvements in the appearance of wrinkles, firmness, redness, and texture of facial skin. It can also assist in the prevention of the development of photoaging and inflammatory skin disorders^18-21.

Coriander Coriandrum Apiaceae:

Coriandrum sativum ethanol extract (CSE) showed a protective effects against UVB-induced skin photoaging in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) in vitro and in the skin of hairless mice in vivo. The cellular levels of procollagen type I and MMP-1 were determined using ELISA in NHDF cells after UVB irradiation. NHDF cells that were treated with CSE after UVB irradiation exhibited higher procollagen type I production and lower levels of MMP-1 than untreated cells. The activity of transcription factor activator protein-1 (AP-1) was also inhibited by CSE treatment. CSE-treated mice had thinner epidermal layers and denser dermal collagen fibers than untreated mice. On a molecular level, it was further confirmed that CSE-treated mice had lower MMP-1 levels and higher procollagen type I levels than untreated mice²².

The protective effect of Coriandrum sativum (CS) against 2, 4-dinitrochlorobenzene-induced CD-like skin lesions was studied in mice. CS, at doses of 0.5-1%, applied to the dorsal skin inhibited the development of CD-like skin lesions. Moreover, the Th2-mediated inflammatory cytokines, immunoglobulin E, tumor necrosis factor-α, interferon-γ, interleukin (IL)-1, IL-4, and IL-13, were significantly reduced. In addition, CS increased the levels of total glutathione and heme oxygenase-1 protein. Thus, CS inhibited the development of CD-like skin lesions in mice by regulating immune mediators and may be an effective alternative therapy for contact diseases²³.

The protective effect of a standardized coriander (CS) leaf extract was studied against oxidative stress in human HaCaT keratinocytes. CS significantly and dose-dependently protected cells against reduced cell viability caused by H2O2-induced damage, as assessed by 3-(4, 5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide assay. Other assays demonstrated that CS protected HaCaT cells by increasing the levels of glutathione and activities of oxidative defense enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase and catalase. Moreover, it increased the expression of activated Nrf2, which plays a crucial role in protecting skin cells against oxidative stress²⁴.

Cucumber Cucumis sativus:

A herbal cosmetic cream comprising extracts of Glycyrrhiza glabra, Cucumis sativus and almond oil was evaluated. Different types of formulations oil in water (O/W) herbal creams namely F1 to F7 were formulated from the ethanol extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra (rhizomes), Cucumis sativus (fruits) and almond oil in varied concentrations. The evaluation of all formulations (F1 to F7) was done on different parameters like pH, viscosity, spreadability, rheological study, and stability along with irritancy test were examined. Formulations F5 and F6 showed good spreadability, good consistency, homogeneity, appearance, pH, ease of removal, spreadibilty and no evidence of phase separation. The formulation F5 and F6 shows no redness, edema, inflammation and irritation during irritancy studies. These formulations are safe to use for skin. These studies suggest that composition of extracts and base of cream of F5 and F6 are more stable and also it may produce synergistic action²⁵.

Cucumis sativus extracts, was investigated for their anti-oxidant, antimicrobial potential and its cosmetic value in treatment of acne. Results showed the presence of total phenolic content (19.25μg and 6.23μg GAE) and flavonoid content (1.82μg and 6.24μg catechin in fresh and dried extracts respectively. Fresh extract of Cucumis sativus indicated promising antibacterial potential and was mixed with tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) oil and linseed (Linum usitatissimum) oil to prepare polyherbal cream (O/W) formulations (F1-F5). Formulations were further evaluated for pH, viscosity and various physical parameters. F5 cream formulation showed pH in range of 5-6 with good spreadability, good consistency with ease of removal, and no evidence of phase separation²⁶.

Different types of formulations oil in water (O/W) herbal creams namely F1 to F7 were formulated from the ethanol extract of Cyperus rotundus (roots), Cucumis sativus (fruits) and almond oil in varied concentrations. All the seven formulations (F1 to F7) were evaluated for various parametrs like pH, viscosity, spreadability, rheological study, and stability along with irritancy test were examined. Formulations F4 and F5 showed good spreadability, good consistency, homogeneity, appearance, pH, ease of removal, spreadibilty and no evidence of phase separation. The formulation F4 and F5 shows no redness, edema, inflammation and irritation during irritancy studies. These formulations are safe to use for skin²⁷.

This study was designed to develop a topical skin-care cream water in oil (w/o) emulsion of 3% cucumber extracts versus its vehicle (Base) as control and evaluates its effects on skin-melanin, skin erythema, skin moisture, skin sebum and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Hydroalcoholıc cucumber (Cucumis sativus) fruit extract was entrapped in the inner aqueous phase of w/o emulsion. Base containing no extract and a formulation containing 3% concentrated extract of C. sativus was formulated. The odour was adjusted with few drops of lemon oil. Both the base and formulation were stored at different storage conditions for a period of 4 weeks to predict their stability. Different stability parameters that are: Physical stability, centrifugation and pH were monitored at different time intervals. Both the base and formulation were applied to the cheeks of 21 healthy human volunteers for a period of 4 weeks. The expected pharmaceutical stability of creams was achieved from 4 weeks in vitro study period. Odour disappeared with passage of time due to volatilization of lemon oil. The base showed insignificant (p > 0.05) effects on all skin parameters except sebum that was not significant, whereas the formulation showed statistically significant (p≤0.05) effects on skin sebum secretion. TEWL and erythema was increased while skin melanin and skin hydration level was decreased by formulation. However these effects were statistically insignificant (p > 0.05).²⁸.

Garlic Allium sativum Liliaceae:

Garlic is widely known for its biological properties and plays an important role as an antioxidant. Oral administration of garlic is effective on immunologic properties, cutaneous microcirculation, protection against UVB and cancer treatment. Additionally, topical application of garlic extract can potentially be effective on psoriasis, alopecia areata, keloid scar, wound healing, cutaneous corn, viral and fungal infection, leishmaniasis, skin aging and rejuvenation. Clinical effectiveness of oral and topical garlic extract is not sufficiently and meticulously explored as so far²⁹.

The herbal shampoo formulations comprising of aqueous extract of Allium sativum (5% to 30% w/w), coconut oil, castor oil, olive oil, fragrance were prepared and evaluated for physicochemical parameters and the results showed the production of stable herbal shampoos. The pH (6.22 ± 0.01 to 5.01± 0.02), percentage of solids (23.21± 0.02 to 25.41± 0.04), dirt dispersion, surface tension (37.25± 0.45 to 39.87± 0.15), viscosity (6.5±0.2 to 5.4±0.2), skin irritation test (no irritation) and visual stability. Formulations were clear, had good foam formation, foam quality and retention with proper rheological properties and skin compliances. The formulations with 10 % extract showed best results of evaluation parameters. The efficacy was in the range 10 % extract containing shampoo (F2) >5 % extract containing shampoo (F1) > 20 % extract containing shampoo (F3)> 30 % extract containing shampoo (F4)³⁰.

Grape Vitis vinifera Vitaceae:

Phenolic compounds are among the most studied natural antioxidant compounds, they also present antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory or antiaging actions and can permeate through the skin barrier. Grapes contain valuable phenolic components and grape byproducts are widely available lowcost raw materials. The application of phenolic compounds from grape products and by products as sources of natural ingredients for cosmetics³¹.

Acne Fighting³² Skin Tightening and healing³³ Reduction of dark circles eye³⁴ Hydration^34,35 Protection of the skin from aging³⁴ Skin protection against UVB radiation^36-38.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 24 Vitis vinifera (grape)-derived ingredients and found them safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics. These ingredients function in cosmetics mostly as skin-conditioning agents, but some function as antioxidants, flavoring agents, and/or colorants. The Panel reviewed the available animal and clinical data to determine the safety of these ingredients³⁹.

Guava Psidium guajava Myrtaceae:

Guava leaves are effective in eliminating acne and black spots from the skin. They contain an antiseptic that can kill acne causing bacteria. For this purpose, mash some guava leaves and apply it on the acne and dark spots. Rinse with water after sometime. This should be done daily until the skin is clear. For the treatment of blackheads, blend the guava leaves with little water and use it as a scrub on your nose to remove blackheads. Guava leaves contain antioxidants which destroy the free radicals that damage your skin, thus protecting your skin from ageing as well as improving skin tone and texture. A decoction of mature guava leaves can be applied on the skin for tightening it. Guava leaves are an instant cure for getting rid of itchiness as they contain allergy blocking compounds⁴⁰.

The activity of essential oil of Psidium guajava (Linn.) was evaluated against four selected dermatophytes, namely Microsporiumcanis, Trichophytomruburum, T. verrucossum, T. tonsurans. Dermatophytes were isolated with the infected skin, scalp, nail and genital organs of patients from districts hospital, Bareilly. Griseofulvin was used as a standard antifungal drug against the test dermatophytes. Oil was extracted through clevenger’s apparatus. Maximum inhibition zone was reported 69 mm against T. verrucossum followed by 60 mm Trichophytomruburum, 48 mm Trichophytomruburum and 45mm Microsporiumcanis. All five concentrations of oil showed excellent inhibitory effect against all test dermatophytes as compared to standard antifungal used⁴¹.

Aqueous extracts was more potent in inhibiting the growth of pathogenic Proteus mirabilis, Streptococcus pyogenes, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa than the organic extracts. The gram-negative bacteria were less susceptible to the effects of the crude drugs. The MIC and MBC values ranged between 6.25-50mg/ml, depending on extracting solvent and the bacterium in question. Based on the diameters of zones of growth inhibitions, the crude extracts were more effective under acidic conditions and also at low temperatures. The plant can be used for the formulation of oral antibacterial drugs to manage surgical, skin and soft tissue infections⁴².

Hibiscus sabdariffa L Malvaceae:

It is used as a cosmetic In Malaysia, the oil is used to produce scrubs and soaps⁴³.

Lemon Citrus lemon Rutaceae:

Lime juice and its oil are very beneficial for skin when consumed orally or applied externally. It rejuvenates the skin, keeps it shining, protects it from infections and reduces body odor due to presence of a large amount of vitamin-C and Flavonoids, both of which are class-1 anti oxidants, anti biotic and disinfectants. When applied externally on skin, its acids scrub out the dead cells, cures dandruff, rashes, bruises etc. and gives you a refreshing bath if its juice or oil is mixed into your bathing water⁴⁴.

Topical bioavailability of lipid- and water-soluble vitamins is a critical issue for protecting or anti-ageing formulations. Using 17-day-old Skin Ethic reconstructed human epidermis, we investigated (at 34°C) the role of lemon EO in enhancing the penetration of α-tocopherol (E) and retinyl acetate (A), pyridoxine (B(6)) and ascorbic acid (C), released from O/W or W/O emulsions. D-limonene, α-pinene and p-cymene (65.9, 2.2 and 0.5%w/w of the oil) had skin permeability coefficients Ps (10(-3) cm h (-1)) of 0.56 ± 0.03 (or 0.73 ± 0.02), 0.72 ± 0.05 (or 0.98 ± 0.05) and 0.84 ± 0.04 (or 1.14 ± 0.04), respectively, when incorporated in a W/O (or O/W) emulsion. Vitamins B6, C and A had Ps values of (3.0 ± 0.4) × 10(-3), (7.9 ± 0.6) × 10(-3) and (0.37 ± 0.02) × 10(-5) cm h (-1), respectively, and their flux through the skin was enhanced by a factor of 4.1, 3.4 and 5.8, respectively, in the presence of lemon EO. The penetration of vitamin E was nine-fold enhanced. Lemon EO produced only reversible modification of TEWL, and it is a safe and effective penetration enhancer for topical administration of lipid- and water-soluble vitamins⁴⁵.

White lily Lilium candidum Liliaceae:

Melanocytes, cells from the basal layer, synthesize melanin that absorbs UV rays. They transfer it to keratinocytes through melanosomes, organites that fill up with melanin while developing. The synthesis of melanin like the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes are complex phenomenae, dependent on the action of many molecules, hormones and cytokines. Bright Light Madonna lily interferes with the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes by limiting the action of the PAR-2 (protease-activated receptor-2) activated by a protease enzyme that makes absorption of melanosomes by keratinocytes easier. Therefore the quantity of melanin decreases in keratinocytes. In the same time, it boosts cell renewal to get a better cell balance and to force out faster melanin in the epidermis. Brightening, helps to prevent and decrease dark spots, limits alterations of tone, contributes to a more uniform tone, regenerating, increases cell renewal, anti-ageing⁴⁶

The chemical composition of bulbs (saponins and polysaccharides) gives the extract soothing, anti-inflammatory and protective properties. The extract also has hydrating and emollient properties (polysaccharides). Therefore, it can be added to all types of formulations aimed at dry, irritated or sensitive skin (Council of Europe, 2001). Soluble polysaccharides have a filmogenic action on skin, which promotes skin hydration. They act by holding water, consequently maintaining the right moisture level in the horny layer, which in turn improves skin flexibility⁴⁷.

Mallow Malva Sylvestris Malvaceae:

Skin Whitening changes in skin color during product usage were obtained on the face with the Minolta Meter. A significant decrease in skin color was observed after six and twelve weeks. After six weeks a 7% change was observed in the L value and this increased to 15.3% after 12 weeks. Age Spot Evaluation was observed on the face. These spots were enumerated in total and graded from 1-3 on the basis of size and color. Results suggest that some changes were observed with respect to the size and darkness of the age spots in comparison with surrounding skin. After twelve weeks of treatment a 28.6% decrease in color of the age spots was observed while size decreased by 8.6%⁴⁸.

Mint Mentha spicata Lamiaceae:

Peppermint is said to be a good analgesic to be applied topically and also a coolant for the skin. Peppermint oil stimulates cold receptors on the skin and dilates blood vessels, causing a sensation of coldness and an analgesic effect⁴⁹. In low concentrations, topical application of menthol causes a cooling sensation, while in high concentrations it causes irritation and local anesthesia⁵⁰.

Onion Allium cepa L. Liliaceae:

Methanol extract of Allium cepa L. was obtained by maceration. Subsequently, it was formulated to cream using the fusion method. The extract and the cream were then subjected to some quality assessment tests under different storage conditions of 5,25 and 45°C at days five and seven consecutively. These tests include; enumeration of microbial count, physical appearance, odour, after feel, pH, spread ability and nature of the cream. Our findings demonstrates that values obtained from creams stored at room temperature(25°C) are within acceptable range for quality whereas, those stored at extreme temperatures (5and 45°C) had values outside the normal range (change in physical appearance, poor spread ability with altered nature of cream formulated)⁵¹.

Papaya Carica papaya Caricaceae:

Exfoliative action on skin due to its keratolytic action, papain degrades dead cells in the outermost skin layer, thus improving skin health, hygiene and brightness⁵². Topical chymopapain and papain are efficiently used to treat children’s burns and recurrent plantar ulcers in leprosy patients, because they prevent infection and accelerate wound healing⁵³. Papaya also contains α-hydroxyacids (AHAs). These active compounds also have moisturizing action due to their hydroxyl groups⁵⁴.

Papaya latex (Carica papaya L.), papaya fruit extract and yam bean tuber extracts (Pachyrrhizus erosus (L.) Urb.) were combined for skin lightening body lotion formula. Antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activities were evaluated in the starting materials and the products. Antioxidant activity evaluation was conducted using DPPH free radical scavenging activity method. Tyrosinase inhibitory evaluation was performed based on tyrosinase enzymatic inhibitory reaction to tyrosine as substrate. Papaya latex showed the highest antioxidant activity (32.01%), followed by yam bean tuber extract (27.04%) and papaya extract (26.09%). The tyrosinase inhibitory activities of papaya latex, papaya fruit extract and yam bean tuber extracts were 68.42%, 36.80% and 52.63% respectively, as compared to that of arbutin (100%). Based on product appearance, color, odor, pH and viscosity, the product were stable for 128 weeks. The expired date calculation on its antioxidant activity, however, the product was stable for 77 weeks. It is recommended that the product should be stored in non transparent bottle at low temperature or at about 25-28^oC⁵⁵.

Parsley Petroselinum crispum Apiaceae:

The Parsley leaves extract (juice) contains more vitamin C than lemon, orange or any other fruit ie more than 50mg/100g of Parsley. It has abundant quantities of other vitamins and minerals such as: pro vitamin A, vitamin B, vitamin E, vitamin K, beta-carotene, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, manganese, sodium, potassium, sulfur and calcium. Parsley has long been widely used in cosmetics to freshen the face, discoloration, freckles and dark age spots, wrinkles and prevent the occurrence of red spots, strengthen and grow hair. The Cleanser base was selected with the 2% and 4% concentrations of the active which then subjected to its in-vivo study in order to evaluate its oil control property using Sebometer. The 4% concentration of parsley leaf extract was found to be effective oil controlling agent⁵⁶.

Passion fruit Passiflora incarnata Passifloraceae:

Seed Oil is a superior emollient rich in vitamin C, calcium and phosphorus. The high content of essential fatty acids and light texture of Passion fruit Seed Oil makes it a valuable contribution to a wide array of personal care products intended to nourish the skin and treat dry skin conditions. It is highly recommended in scalp and hair care products to encourage healthy hair growth and increased vitality. Passion fruit Seed Oil is calming and sedating, and is suitable for inclusion in bath care products and products intended to promote relaxation. Its anti-inflammatory, anti-spasmodic and sedative properties make it the oil of choice for use in massage applications and formulations intended to ease muscular aches and swelling⁵⁷.

Pulsatilla vulgaris Ranunculaceae:

The Oil acts as a vesicant when applied to the skin⁵⁸.

Saffron Crocus sativus Iridaceae:

The antioxidant activity of C. sativus extract was determined using DPPH method. Water in oil (w/o) topical cream of C. sativus extract (3%) was formulated and compared with the base (cream without extract). Both creams (formulation and base) were applied to the cheeks of 10 healthy human volunteers for a period of 8 weeks. Melanin and erythema values of skin were measured with a mexameter. The antioxidant activity of the extract was 81%. Change in the levels of skin melanin and erythema was -24.04±3.23 and -13.57± 2.28, respectively, indicating that unlike the base, the formulation containing Crocus sativus extract produced significant (p ≤ 0.05) depigmentation and anti erythemic effect on human skin. Application of the formulation containing 3% C. sativus extract to human skin may be useful in the management of melanoma⁵⁹.

Strawberry Fragaria vesca Rosaceae:

The strawberries are a very rich source of polyphenols, anthocyanins and vitamins, and possess high total antioxidant capacity. The potential photoprotective capacity of different strawberry-based formulations were assessed, enriched with nanoparticles of Coenzyme Q10 and with sun protection factor 10 (SPF10), in human dermal fibroblasts (HuDe) exposed to UVA radiation. We also showed that strawberry extracts (25μg/mL–1 mg/mL) exert a noticeable photoprotection in HuDe, increasing cell viability in a dose-dependent way, and that these effects are potentiated by the presence of CoQ10red (100μg/mL)⁶⁰.

Tea Camellia sinensis Theaceae:

The green tea is the richest kind of tea in catechins. lt has been documented that compounds contained in this plant display beneficial influence on human skin, hence the wide application of green tea as a raw material in cosmetology. The green tea displays antioxidant and astringent activity as well as influences the micro vessel system. All of these features make it very common ingredient of anti-age formulations and products influencing micro vessel system⁶¹.

Green tea (GT) extracts contain polyphenols, known to be effective free radical scavengers, and other ingredients that could also provide benefits to the skin. This is a report on clinical studies using objective, noninvasive methods to evaluate the effects of cosmetic formulations containing GT. Experimental formulations were supplemented or not (vehicle) with 6% Camellia sinensis glycolic leaf extracts (GT). These formulations were applied to the forearm skin of 24 volunteers, and their effects were evaluated before and after 2 hours, 15 and 30 days according to the following parameters: stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss, skin viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio (Uv/Ue), and microrelief. The volunteers were instructed not to apply any formulation in an area of the forearm (control area). Experimental formulations (GT) increased skin moisture in the long-term study, indicating that GT has a prolonged moisturizing effect. The Uv/Ue was significantly enhanced after 30days of topical application of the experimental formulation when compared with vehicle and control. After 15–30days, skin microrelief was significantly improved due to a reduction in skin roughness⁶².

Thyme Thymus vulgaris L. Lamiaceae:

The influence of the two extraction factors, temperature and duration, upon the composition of 50% and 70% ethyl alcohol, and propylene glycol extracts from thyme (Thymus vulgaris L.) has been studied. The diffusion coefficients (D) of the main group of bioactive substances, tannins, have been obtained. The antimicrobial activity of extracts has been investigated. As test microorganisms 4 Gram-positive bacteria, 3 Gram-negative bacteria, 2 yeasts and the moulds Àspergillus niger were used. The thyme extracts possess bactericidial, bacteriostatic and fungicidal effect against one of the most frequent microorganisms in cosmetic products⁶³.

Turmeric Curcuma longa Zingiberaceae:

The effect of a w/o cream of turmeric extract on skin sebum secretion in human volunteers was evaluated. Two w/o cream formulations were prepared one contained 5% extract prepared from the rhizomes of the plant, turmeric, and the second was similar except that it did not contain the extract and served as control. The antioxidant activity of the extract was determined by using the DPPH method. Evaluation of the effect of the creams on skin sebum secretion was conducted with the aid of a sebumeter. Initial sebum measurements on the face of thirteen human volunteers were taken with the sebumeter prior to application of cream, and then fortnightly after twice daily application of cream (on the right and left cheeks for control and extract creams, respectively) over a period of three months. Significant increase (p ˂0.05) in the sebum values was observed from the 6thweek onwards after control cream application. Maximum increase of 6.2%was observed on the 10thweek of the study. On the other hand, following extract cream application, a significant decrease (p ˂0.05) in sebum secretion occurred from the 4thweek onwards, reaching a maximum of 24.8% at the end of the study period. The antioxidant activity of the extract was 88.5% of the standard⁶⁴.

Pumpkin Cucurbita pepo Cucurbitaceae:

Pumpkin contains large amounts of zinc, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, calcium, ferulic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, vitamin A, and vitamin B. Being high in zinc content, pumpkin may also aid the healing process. Other nutrients include magnesium, phosphorus, copper, potassium, niacin, folic acid, riboflavin, and thiamin as well as pantothenic acid, salicylic acid, beta-carotene, retinol, unsaturated oils, and antioxidants.

Pumpkin is used as an exfoliation accelerator, a powerful antioxidant and a mild retinoic acid substitute. Pumpkin contains a wide spectrum of vitamin A derivatives that fit into the retinoic acid receptors found in the skin, activating cellular turnover. The keratolytic properties of pumpkin enzymes make a good non-abrasive preparation for much stronger exfoliations, while decreasing the oxidative and free radical stress associated with chemical exfoliations⁶⁵.

Pomegranate Punica granatum Lythraceae:

In this study creams were formulated based on the anti-oxidant potential of herbal extracts and its evaluation. Punica granatum leaves were shade dried and extracted by using soxhlet method with different solvents such as n-hexane, Benzene, alcohol and consistency of different metabolites. In this study creams were formulated based on the antioxidant potential of herbal extract and its evaluation. The creams were formulated with neem oil, jamul powder, carrot powder with different concentrations namely F1to F4. The creams were to be stable during stability studies accordingly ICH guidelines 30± 2ᵒC/50±5% RH and 40±2ᵒC/75±5% RH for 2 months. The real time stability studies were also conducted for 12 months⁶⁶.

Pomegranate Extracts and Seed Oil from Extracts & Ingredients, contain high levels of Ellagic Acid (peel, juice and seed extract) and Punicic Acid (seed oil). These constituents, along with other polyphenols, make Pomegranate derivatives useful and effective anti-inflammatory and anti-aging agents in topical products. Pomegranate Seed Oil has excellent moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is excellent for mature and aging skin, dry and cracked skin, irritated and sun burnt skin. This oil is used to treat acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and assists in many special facial and body treatments. Pomegranate Extract and Seed Oil combinations are highly effective in reducing and preventing fine wrinkles and in firming the epidermis⁶⁷.

The antioxidant and eicosanoid enzyme inhibition properties of pomegranate (Punica granatum) fermented juice and seed oil flavonoids were studied. The pomegranate fermented juice (pfj) and cold pressed seed oil (pcpso) showed strong antioxidant activity close to that of butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and green tea (Thea sinensis), and significantly greater than that of red wine (Vitis vitifera). Flavonoids extracted from pcpso showed 31-44% inhibition of sheep cyclooxygenase and 69-81% inhibition of soybean lipoxygenase. Flavonoids extracted from pfj showed 21-30% inhibition of soybean lipoxygenase though no significant inhibition of sheep cyclooxygenase. The pcpso was analyzed for its polyphenol content and fatty acid composition. Total polyphenols in pcpso showed a concentration by weight of approximately 0.015%. Pcpso fatty acid composition showed punicic acid (65.3%) along with palmitic acid (4.8%), stearic acid (2.3%), oleic acid (6.3%), linoleic acid (6.6%) and three unidentified peaks from which two (14.2%) are probably isomers of punicic acid⁶⁸.

In the present study, sunscreen activity of 5% and 10% formulated cream containing the Pongamia pinnata leave extract and Punica granatum peel extract (3:2) was determined by absorption spectroscopy, transmission spectroscopy and by COLIPA standard method for sun protection factor determination. In absorption spectroscopy, the absorbance of dilute test solution of formulation from 290-320nm was studied to determine SPF against UV-B while in the transmittance spectroscopy, UVA and UVB protection and average UVA protection factor were calculated by taking transmission of formulations from 290 nm-400 nm using PVC as substrate also samples were submitted to Kelkar Cosmetology lab, mulund for the determination of sun protection factor by COLIPA standard method using UV-200S Transmittance analyzer. In this method sun protection factor is determined by taking transmission of formulation from 290nm-450nm using transpore tape. The present study shows that there is increase in the sunscreen activity with increase in the percentage of actives in the formulation and having good potency to protect against UVA and B rays⁶⁹.

Pineapple Ananas comosus Bromeliaceae:

Active cream carrying 2% extract of Ananas comosus in the internal phase of w/o emulsion was prepared while placebo contained no extract. Stability assessment of both creams was performed at various storage conditions 8,25,40OC, 40OC+75% RH (relative humidity) and 50OC. Effects on epidermal hydration and TEWL were observed by applying active cream at one side and placebo on the other side of face by 11 healthy human volunteers during 12 weeks period using Corneometer MPA5 and Tewameter MPA5. Results indicated that both creams (active and placebo) remained stable at all storage conditions. All samples manifested non-Newtonian, shear thinning behavior with increasing shear rate, whereas statistical interpretation indicated that effects of active cream were superior than placebo, as it significantly (p = 0.05) improves the epidermal hydration levels up to 56.74% and reduces TEWL up to -73.19% at the end of study period compared to baseline value. The surface evaluation of living skin (SELS) parameters SEr, SEsc, SEsm, SEw were also assessed and indicated a significant (p = 0.05) reduction⁷⁰.

Ginger Zingiber officinale Zingiberaceae:

Studies have shown that ginger extract use on skin can improve the structure and function of the skin and concomitantly may reduce the formation of non healing wounds in at-risk skin. Gingerol helps new blood vessel formation in inflamed and damaged skin which has a reduced vasculature. A study on corticosteroid-treated rats showed that pre-treatment with topical ginger and curcumin extract improved healing of induced abrasion skin wounds⁷¹.

The present work deals with the development and evaluation of the poly herbal cream containing hydro-alcoholic extract of carrot (Daucus Carota), turmeric (Curcuma longa) and alcoholic extract of liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) & crape Jasmine (Tabernaemontana divaricata). Different types of formulations oil in water (O/W) herbal creams namely F1 to F6 were formulated by incorporating different concentrations of stearic acid and cetyl alcohol. The evaluations of all formulations (F1 to F6) were done on different parameters like pH, spreadability and stability etc. Formulations F5 and F6 showed good spreadability, good consistency, homogeneity, appearance, pH, no evidence of phase separation and ease of removal. The formulation F5 and F6 shows no redness, edema, inflammation and irritation during irritancy studies. These formulations are safe to use for skin. These studies suggest that composition of extracts and base of cream of F5 and F6 are more stable and safe, it may produce synergistic action⁷².

CONCLUSION:

Consequently, the demand for cosmetic products has increased dramatically. Nowadays in the modern world people spend their money and valuable time going to beauty centers for facial and hair coloring and waste their money. Maintaining healthy skin and hair naturally is better than going for hair fall treatment to beauty centers. In the present scenario most of the cosmetics products are adulterated. Some spurious cosmetics which are available in the market may produce side effects and damage the skin. Instead of this they can use natural homemade remedies prepare their own formulations with these easily available plants at their home and they can use these preparations without side effects. Cosmetic preparations can be prepared using natural, herbal medicinal plants, traditional herbal medicine and complementary alternative medicine. The plants reviewed in this article contain active phytochemical constituents which can be further reviewed and research work can be carried out on these plants. Cosmetic preparations can be formulated using single herbs, combination drugs and poly herbal formulations, they can be formulated and prepared using these plants and these plants can be further explored for future studies, and their biological activities can be determined. Since some of the well known and easily available plants can prove valuable in the treatment of disease for which still no good cure is known.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

The authors are thankful and grateful to Seven Hills College of Pharmacy, for their continuous support and inspiration.

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Received on 14.09.2019 Accepted on 30.11.2019

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2020; 11(1):32-44.

DOI: 10.5958/2321-5844.2020.00007.2